ERSC 1F90 Lecture Notes - Lecture 10: Sea Level Rise, Wave Base, Surf Zone
9 Apr 2015
School
Department
Course
Professor
Document Summary
The shoreline is a dynamic interface between air, land and sea: constant modification by waves, today the coastal zone is experiencing intense human activity. About 60% of the world"s population lives in coastal regions. Sediments tend to be more mature further from the source better sorted, well- rounded, enriched in resistant quartz grains. Coasts are temporary structures and are subject to (rapid) change this is inconsistent with human settlement and infrastructure. Height, length and period depend on: wind speed, duration of wind, fetch: distance that the wind has travelled across open water. Begin to feel bottom at wave base. As speed and wavelength diminish at the base, the wave grows higher. The steep wave front then collapses and the wave breaks ( white cap ) Surf: turbulent water created by breaking waves; turbulent water advances up the shore. Swash: water moves up the beach slope. Backwash: water flow back down the beach.
