EARTHSC 2GG3 Lecture Notes - Lecture 13: Passive Margin, Future Group, Beach Nourishment
16 Sep 2016
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Coastal hazards the landscapes where continents meet oceans are dynamic and capable of rapid change major hazards include rip currents, erosion, sea level rise, storm surges, and tsunamis. Iceland) passive margins have wide continental shelves, sandy or pebbly beaches, and barrier islands more gentle situation like a step down from shore into the ocean but not at ocean floor yet ex. Active margins have more rocky shorelines and sea cliffs, more rugged. Coastal topography is influencd by the type of rock as well as the sediment deposited from rivers or glaciers. Wave motion in an open ocean, the motion is circular circles decrease in diameter with depth because energy decreases with depth. Waves slows down as they approach the shore, height increases a bit open ocean, more of energy is below surface so height isn"t as noticeable. Sand transport beach sand is very dynamic and is constantly moved by wave actions littoral transport is sand movement parallel to the shore.
