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Lecture 29.pdf

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Earth Sciences
Sergei Basik

Lecture 29 November 11 2013Coastal Processes Mitigation of Coastal ChangeLiving on Dangerous Coasts By 2004 about 42 of population lived in coastal counties and continues to increaseBeaches and sea cliffs constantly change and coastal processes do not stopPeople build permanent structures at coast try to hold back sea and prevent natural changesEffects of hurricanes are normal part of evolving landscapeseen as nature on a rampageHuman activities can affect wave action beach response seacliff collapseWaves and Sediment Transport Winds blowing across sea push water surface into wavesFriction between air and waterWinddriven waves described in terms ofWave heightWavelengthPeriodHeight of wave increased by Fetch length of water surface over which wind blowsAmount of time wind blows across water surface Waves and Sediment Transport Waves generated with different sizes and moving at different speedsCan interfere to increase or decrease size of combinationgiant rogue wavesOffshoreWater has circular motion within waveWaves approaching shoreBegin to feel bottom where water depth is less than half wavelengthWaves slow in shallow water but rise in height causing them to breakWave energy is proportional to mass of moving waterWave Refraction and Longshore Drift Waves often approach shore at anglePart of wave in shallower water slows downPart of wave still in deeper water moves fasterCrest of wave curves around toward shore
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