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week 12 note .doc

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FFD 200
Kirsten Schaefer

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week 12 Performance finishes Shrinkage - fabric against the drum dried &set w/ -is a reduction in length or wight of a smooth finish in crease fabric count fiber, yarn, fabric P418 -size change - woven fabric is stable than knit fabric London shrinkage( techni) - wool , cotton and rayona tend to shrink - worsted wool (fine wool, suit) the most - fabric sandwiched between wet blankets - effect how the fabric cutting - fabrics kept under press for 12 hrs - flat dry - hung to dry - diametion = testing the fabric possible P 364 (old) shrinkage What finishes are used to minimize fabric relaxation shrinkage care -1st laundered/ dry/cleaning - washable wools - wary yarn =high tension in loom shrink method one: halogenation when realax - wool fiber scales cause interlocking and - knits shrink more than woven( 35%) shrinkage - dry cleaning= solvent, dont shrink too - chlorine partially dissolve the edges od much(seam can cause the shrink) scales - steaming during pressing could cause - chemical must be carefully controlled shrinkage - fabric tends to become rough and harsh - often blended with other fibres progressing shrinkage 2: surface coating - occurs every time a fabric is laundered - thin polymeric layer(resin) is applied to - problem with wool and viscose rayon the surface - polymer coats the scales , inhibiting the controlling shrinkage interlocking action In knit - min pilling and fuzzing - compacting the fabric: overfeeding the fabric between rollers to induce Heat set lengthwise shrinkage - thermoplastic fibers - poly can added to cotton to enable heat - fabrics heated to temputure lower than setting melting point of fiber, then cooled - diff melting point of each fiber compressive shrinkage - progressive shrinkage = no more ,or - woven cotton, lien, and HWM rayon relaxing shrinkage - moist fabric laid over thick felt cloth, passed around a afeed in a roll wrinkles - outer surface stretches and the inner - wrinkles = fabrics crushed during use surface contracts and care - the blanket layer the nreverses to target - pressing= desirable winkles (crease & opposite side pleat) week 12 Performance finishes resiliency= fiber’s natural ability to * problem recover from wrinkles - abrasion resistance, breaking, tear cellulose fiber most prone to wrinkles strength reduced - may have an odour wrinkles recover - makes oleophilic( may be a soil release -depends on cross links holding finish to combat theis) molecular chains together - must have - less absorbent so dry fast, less pull chains back after bending to prevent comfortable in humid wether wrinkles *care strong bonds resist wrinkles - pre-teat stain and grease spots wet bonds do nots - wash in small loads - dun use hight heat in laundering finies 1 - remove promptly from dryer / wrinkles - durable press, permeant press and will set wrinkle- free finishes: - *liduid ammonia durable press - celouse &cellulose blend fabrics - used on 100cotton - resins m
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