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Ryerson University
FFD 200
Kirsten Schaefer

textile II lecture week ? TXt book pg 458-460 identify, advantages & disadvantages (need to know for exam) 1. screenprinting -most versatile, a simple process -80% of prints manufactured this way -a design is applied to a mesh screen, which is made of nylon polyerster / metal ( screen used to be made norm, silk , which is why it is known as” silk screen ” - screen is coat with an opaque film that is usually photosensitive -print pasre applied with a squeegee, forcing -there one screen/colour to align the print, there are small blocks aling the selvage called registration marks -commercial screen may be done by the flat bed,which can print500 yards/hr, it is by rotary screen > 3500/yards/ hr 2. design motif repeat -the pattern are repeat A) For drapery: -matching print -make sure print is line up B) For sheers: horizontal cut fabric 3. heat transfer printing -sublimation printing -design applied on a specially printed paper base then heat and pressure - disperse dye are used -back of fabric is usually is white -adv: good penetration,sharp image ,low cost, low pollution (pp can recycled) -production can be switched quickly from one design to other -often used to kitten goods, and tubular and finished garment -in screen and rolls techniques w/ multiple colour .,the fabric is stretched ( a problem with knits) 4. discharger printing textile II lecture week ? -first, is pice dyed a solid colour -the design is ,made by removing the colour form selected areas -usually done be dark background -discharged paste (stirring alkali/ bleach ( is roller / screen printed on the fabric -if colour is desire in discharge area , dye is assed to the paste -may tender the fabric -is steamed -id: the colour on the back ,will be as rich as the face , but on the design area the colour may not be completely removed at the edges -used on small light colour / white motif 5. resist printing -a combination of printing and dyeing -colour absorption is blocked during yarn / fabric -in batik, hot wax is applied, then fabric dye -in tie-dye, fabric is wrapped with string in certain area and the dye -in IKAT, the yarn is tie- dye and used in the loom-as warp only,weft only, both warp and weft -all of theres “hand process” -limited commercial used 6. IKAT - resist printing method -yarns are treated to resist dye in certain area be4 weaving -presents a subdued pattern within the fabric after weaving 7. warp print -pattern is printed on the warp yarns prior to weaving 8. Duplex print - both sides are printed at the same time -typically used for sheeting -gives the appearance of a woven design, because both sides of the fabric look the same - expensive and not widely used 9. blotch printing textile II lecture week ? -directly printing -background colour and the design are both printed onto a white a fabric usually in a one operation -any of the methods( roller or screen printing ) may be used 10. special effect printing -engineeredprints : distinct design located in specific area of the fabric (border print) designer: lolly Mcquillian -foilprinting: special adhesive is applied to the fabric -is then dyed and partially cured( dry heat is applied) -metallic foil is then applied to the fabric with heat -the foil bonds only where ..... -flockprinting:looks sudden / velvet like -tiny particles of fiber (called flock) are stuck to the fabric -the fabric is first print with an adhesive -flock is then expensed to the adhesive, wither by sifting the flock over the fabric/ change.... -burn out printing; is blend of 2 more fiber types - rayon and polyester -fabric is printed w/ chemical substance -burn out (cellulose) destroy
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