FSN 101 Lecture Notes - Lecture 7: Dobby Loom, Pile Weave, Double Cloth

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Warp yarns are in a criss-cross, figure 8 motion, not parallel. Made by using special attachment on a plain dobby loom. Used for sheer drapes, vegetable bags, thermal blankets. Warp or weft yarn to form fuzzy pile, raised loops. Garments must be cut one way, lightness and darkness in different direction (velvet) Cannot be pressed, pile can get squishes, steam instead. Can be combined with flat or pile areas to create design. Fibre content, filament more smooth = slip out easily. Extra set of weft yarns float on surface. In corduroy - floats are aligned, and cut pile created lengthwise rows that alternate with no pile rows. Wales can be very fine or very thick. Feather wale is the finest, 18-21 wales per inch. In velveteen - weft floats are scattered, creating an overall uniform pile. More body, less drape, made from staple yarns, short pile, looks more dull.

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