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Textiles - Lec 6.docx

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Ryerson University
FSN 101
Sandra Tullio Pow

Textiles Week 6: Weave diagram: Left hand twill Black = warp, white = weft Float - Occurs when a yarn crosses over two or more yarns in the opposite direction Basket Weave - Plain weaves Twill Weave - Identify through diagonal line - Float goes over 2 yarns Wale - Raised line within the weave (diagonal lines) - Ex: corduroy The Twill Repeat - Designated by a fraction - 2/2 or 3/2: [1 is warp, 2 is weft] - Describes the total repeat of any warp yarn - Top number = number of weft yarns the warp goes over - Bottom number = number of weft yarns warp goes under Variations in Twill Weave - Balanced twill 2/2- even on front and back - Warp faced twill 2/1– more warp yarn on the surface of fabric than weft (stronger) - Weft faced twill 1/2– more weft yarn on the surface of fabric than warp Twill - Warp faced, weft faced, even, right/left handed, steepness of the angle (15, 20, 27 [reclining twill], 45, 63, 70, 75 degrees) (p 281 fig 12.23) - Majority is right handed (identify which way it starts and ends to determine right/left) Behaviour of the Twill - Durable - Hides soil and stains - More difficult to clean Variations of the Twill Weave - Herringbone: broken twill line; goes up then back down, changing direction of twill of predictable weave; vertical sections; most popular twill weave and in 2 colours - Houndstooth: twill weave, pointed check, used with contrast colour to make it stand out, classic that is seen in wool fabric, men and women wear - Denim: 2/1 or 3/1; warp faced, right hand twill, inside is whiter because weft yarn shows on wrong side of fabric, shade of indigo - Cavalry: angle is steep (63), double twill line (ridges), used for riding habits, very strong - Gabardine: common in menswear, warp faced fabric, wale on edge is pronounced & distinct, rainwear, strong and tight, twice as many warp yarns, - Drill - Chino: khaki, beige and black, pronounced twill line, originally yellow mineral dyed, chino was purchased by china at the time, always 2 ply and cotton, - Sharkskin: menswear, typically done with dark and light coloured yarn - Satin: visual indicator is the shine; achieved by using filament yarns, classic for bridal and evening wear, floats over # of yarns [4 floats], s
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