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Lecture

FSN 223 part 2

21 Pages
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Department
Fashion
Course Code
FSN 223
Professor
benbarry

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FSN 223 Week 7 Fashion, The Body and Identity II For Plus-Size Men - Discussion article - Review of Chubstr website – gives them their expertise and tips for styling - Market that is not catered towards -Blackface- old theatre makeup… - Barbie and Ideal femininity – made of plastic 1. Identity to Identities a. Black women and hair b. People with disabilities and fashion c. Gay men and body image 2. Queering Identities 3. Review assignment a. Object analysis b. Requirements Intersectionality- Kimberle Crenshaw 1989 - law student - US antidiscrimination law wasn’t protecting black women - Black women were the last to be hired and the first to be fired because of discrimination - Being discriminated because of both gender and racial identity - Intersectionality – black women weret being protected because they were looking at one identity at a time- gender or race o Our identity is multi-dimensional o Our identity is comprised of all our different identity categories o Each identity category intersects and interacts to form our complete identity - Individual-> society all the categories we belong to add to our identity- ability, gender, social class, culture, age…. If affects the way society looks at you and how you look at society … affects our choice of clothing Politics of Hair - gender, race, sexuality.. - “Good Hair”- long straight silky seemingly white - Peter Brown- black people and white people were from different species- white people had hair while black people have wool. - Hose slaves had to iron their hair to look as white as possible - Slaves in the field would wear scarfs around their hair, on their day off the women got together and would braid their hair - Black women having natural hair showed –power, pride, resistance, and challenge- it was a political statement - Angela David- activist for women and natural hair - 90s- Naomi Campbell-pin straight hair= upper class- natural hair was lower status. - Black women were told to have their hair straightened, braided or short because it was more professional - Philomena Kwao- natural short hair, but is forced to wear a wig when modeling - White women have different types of hair too- curly, wavy etc. - Body work- hair is always a work in progress… intensified by consumer culture - Oprah Winfrey- first time in 12 years she had natural hair 2012… - Joan Small- one of the first models in vogue that had her natural hair How might black women’s intersection with age influence the way in which they style their hair? Do other identity groups have their own “good hair” myths? People with Disabilities- Izzy Camilleri - wheelchairs, always have to have modifications - Izzy- Toronto based designer- luxury clothes (featured in the devil wears prada).. she had one customer who was in a wheelchair, and had to have everything modified. Izzy worked with her and opened her eyes to the market. IZ Adaptive Clothing- clothes that work best for the seated person- men and women. It’s about accepting people no different from you and I. Very successful. Fashionable clothes for people who use wheelchairs. Offers her clients inclusion and self expression - Amputees. Prosthetic limbs. - Aimee Mullins, Mario Calla… runway models. Pro- esthetic. It is an accessory. Aimee- olympian modeling in alexander mcqueen . One day she can be 5,8’ one day she can be 6,2”.. she has 12 sets of legs. Changeable accessory. Architects of their own identity . Mario- Hugo Boss gave him shorts.. empowering - Kelly Knox- born without a left arm past the elbow. She doesn’t try to hide it. She wants to show everyone this is who I am. - In many ways they represent the western beauty ideal but they only deviate from the ideal in one way- a disability. Gay Men and Body Image- Interview - brief encounters, top male models showing off the new boxers and briefs - gay men show more concern over their weight and appearance - threat of rejection from partners and gay community - they feel like there is a stereotype they need to live up to. Feminized, well- groomed, certain speech, etc. - Gay Sub-Cultures- Leather, trendy, preppy, jock, drag… each has their own standards. Added pressure How might gay men’s intersection with race and/or disability influence their body image? - intersections.. race, gender, culture.. harder for certain men to come out - In media.. gay men are 99% Caucasian What are the personal costs of deviating from the appearance expectations of your “community” or sub-culture? …. - Fab magazine- Gay man in wheelchair…. Attitude of the community toward my difference. Getting the community to understand that I am no different. Queering Identities Judith Butler- Gender Trouble.. Queer theory.. troubling & challenging categories of identity Queer theory - Contests fixed binary identity categories… either male or female.. 1% of people intersex. o Classifying people into binary categories… o Either homosexual or heterosexual relationship. o Sexuality can be simply divided into categories- queer theory challenges this - Challenges that one identity category is naturally connected to another o Males are masculine, Females are feminine. o Males can be feminine and females can be masculine o You can feel like any gender you choose We wear clothes to hide ourselves but we wear clothes that show which gender we are… Andre Pejic.. models for men and women. He can perform any gender. Casey Legler.. she models gendered masculine clothes. She can perform masculine gender. Gender is independent. We have the choice. J.W. Anderson.. challenged traditionally gendered clothing… skirts for men- very masculine because you can show your thigh which is very manly… People may still be faced with resistance if they try this… Strong control.. gender clothes have to match your sex. The power of fashion is to be able to challenge this. We can move to a new equality by our choice of clothes in editorials and what we show in the media and present to the world. Socially constructed- Race Pantone to cataloged all the different skin colours .. Shows it is more diverse than we think.. problematizes race.. Desire for categorizing, but question what do these do? Grant more privilege.. hierarchy… what does this mean.. Idea behind it is that you are not just black white or brown Identities are complicated.. made up of many categories Different ways to understand identities… we are looking at it from the western point of view What do the identity categories miss out on? FSN 223 Week 8 Fashion Concepts and Theories Fashion PR: And Inside Perspective Christine Own and run Faulhaber Communications GTA Native Ryerson BCOMM & Marketing 24 Years in PR/Marketing/ Retail World Traveler Philanthropist/Foodie Entrepreneur Mother of two Will be discussing - Career path - The relevance of PR - What we do - Challenges and changes in the industry - Where that leaves you Started.. it was just her and a laptop Started at Fairweather was an excellent salesperson Identify what you are good at early on Traveled around working with merch. and marketing Joe for Chaock.. she did everything. In her 20s, she knew she wasn’t just a sales person. She could identify opportunities.. (when to add on a green jump suit etc.) Isellideas.com- her own website She doesn’t have business plan.. sometimes causes trouble, but she knew that this was the right thing for her Who is Faulhaber Comm? They are a highly interactive agency, specializing in connecting lifestyle brands to media, trade and consimers Services: branding, business development, graphic design, event planning… etc. etc. When they have a client they must ask- what do they need? - Build relationships - Exposure - Brainpower PR: long list of other things not just media relations.. (unlike advertising) She tells them how it is… Why brands come to them http://www.faulhaber.ca - extension of their brands - ambassadors - strong relationships - passionate& dedicated - results-focused - high touch - creativity & ideas - reporting - polish (how you look, say.. presentation) Media Coverage Product Placement (get paid to place products on people… Nelly’s necklace) Party Planning (a lot of work, they have owned them or have been parts of them, Design exchange anniversary gala, involved in many levels… paid to promote them, exhibition launch- was fully responsible) Brand launches- essence event, ambassador for the client, what do they need?... models ambassadors etc. “I know who I am I know what I’m not” Showroom Social Media- Instagram, twitter, facebook Experiential Marketing- design trade fair.. had to come up with something that would get them coverage.. Store Launch- EQ3.. Fashion Show Planning- Vawk. Fashion Week Backstage Charity Initiatives – works with ovarian cancer Fundraising gala City-wide event Celebrity ambassadors “if you don’t ask you don’t get” Challenges and changes- New Media Relevance of New Media- things to consider when consulting a client - turning followers into customers - how to make money using social media marketing - getting followers or friends on Twitter and facebook - getting subscribers to your blog - getting traffic to your website, blog of facebook page - .. etc. Tastemakers- Less paid.. What is your unique selling proposition? Why you? What makes you valuable? Sell yourself… push harder, work hard Need internships for resume Volunteer at Fashion Week? School isn’t enough Hard skills Soft skills Come with ideas Make yourself invaluable Traveled? Babysat? Etc. Fashion, Art and Fierceness Gender as Performance- guy model used t model lipstick marketing says “I am the Mac girl!” 1. Aesthetic regime 2. Is fashion art? 3. Fashion and fierceness a. Tina Turner b. Lady Gaga 4. Return assignments What are Aesthetics? 1. Social construction of visual appearance 2. Shared in a cultural and historic moment – it changes throughout time.. it’s not a fixed idea, changes in cultures… it is not universal 3. Style is a nuanced articulation of aesthetics Aesthetic Regime- Dominant belief system - taste in a culture… what is beautiful, in practices and understandings.. western beauty ideal - dominant belief system .. held by gatekeepers.. Vogue.. people who influence beauty.. editors, celebrities, designers - part of this is change in introducing new elements - only acceptable if it is legitimized by the gatekeepers Process of transformation 1. challenge status quo 2. controversy 3. acceptance of rejection 4. incorporation of elimination 5. new aesthetic regime Main example- influxes of Japanese designers in Paris- changed the structure in clothing (issey miyake) combined eastern and western techniques. Used the latest technology. New Shapes seamless garments. 29 Japonese designers show their collection in Paris between 1970-2002. New aesthetic. Asymmetrical, architectural. Are consumers the new gatekeepers? - Gabi fresh… plus size blogger - Fashion illustrations of curvy women (killer curves) - Are they helping to change the regime Strategies to change the regime 1. Appealing to logics of the regime a. Logics of commerce (giving feedback on their blogs to retailers about type of clothing they want) b. Logics of art (if you are creative you should be able to make it in every size) 2. Publicize innovations and impediments 3. Allying with more powerful actors What other marginalized consumer groups are using social media to change the aesthetic regime? Little People Big world… Plus size mannequins Marc Jacobs and Takahi Murakami - fashion is a copy.. it is not a true art form.. - Richard Martin- art and fashion are two separate domains, they have different motives (fashion is a business, art has much more deeper and higher ends... social of cultural change) - Fashion is a wearable dwelling, special design, similarly architecture has taken inspiration from fashion - Dita von Teese- first 3d printed dress, designed on an Ipad.. held together by 3000 joints Recognition of fashion in museums - costume institute 1937 Diana Vreeland - 1946 merged with metropolitan - 35000 garments and accessories - Canada- patricia harris gallery of textiles and costume 50000 artifacts McCord Museum oldest patchwork quilt - Savage beauty exhibit- Business or benefit? o McQueen’s collection th o Attracted 700 000 people, 8 most attended show for metropolitan Why do you think there is such prejudice against fashion? Kids grow up to fashion.. Fashion and Fierceness Madison Moore… studied with Ben.. Teaching in the US - A spectacular way of being in the world a transgressive over-performance of the self through aesthetics. This over-performance works simultaneously to change the dynamics of a room by introducing one’s sartorial, creative presence into the space as well as it is to crystallize, highlight, and push….” Theory of Fierceness 1. Owning your space through aesthetics 2. Breaking down limiting identity markers 3. Proposing new, fluid identity categories 4. Often used by oppressed groups Fierceness is a way to fight back and create new identity Tina Turner - Career over 50 years, - cover of German vogue, oldest woman to be featured on vogue 73 - challenges ideals of gender and race - rolling stone cover, sexualized short sequin dress, but it isn’t a pretty shot, she has muscular arms, she is in action .. 1967 - black women on covers of anything was rare. 1974- first black woman on cover of vogue - challenges what it means to be a black woman of the time .. what I means to be a respectable woman/ black woman of the time - the Supremes Lady Gaga - gender as fluid - idea of gender as no binary, the way she used fashion and body language - performs ideas of femininity, Aleandro- polarized ideal of femininity - male type drag… with a purple ponytail… - transcends the whole notion of gender.. genderless? Own expression of gender - destable our notions of identity.. power of fashion, stylist, art director.. it has the power to challenge these ideas - Disability- hardly see in fashion but she brings it up in paparazzi… - Is this fierce? o Representation by a celebrity is a positive. She looks edgy and chic.. fashion statements. Amy Mullins- architectural tool.. help craft your identity. o Negative. Transcending. Reinforces stereotypes. Lasts for less than a minute. Temporary- something you can get over. Being disabled makes you less fabulous…? No longer fierce. Disability is hidden (private).. not shown to the public. Fashion concepts and theories Week 9 Fashion as a Business and Cultural Industry Clear who you are interviewing Key themes! State them again in the conclusion Reference graph in critical analysis Subheadings 2 or 3 key themes The theory of Fierceness 1. Owning your space through aesthetics 2. Breaking down limiting identity markers 3. Proposing new. Fluid identity categories 4. Often used by oppressed groups Madison Moore’s theory… - Janelle Moore - Pink - Adam Lambart - Frank ocean - Adele - Beyonce - Grace Jones Mannequins from Ahlens - Sweden.. different types of mannequins - skinny male mannequin Gender as performance and choice “gender is the repeated stylization of the body, a set of repeated acts within a highly rigid regulatory frame that congeal over time to produce the appearance of substance, of a natural sort of being.” –Butler - labeled categorized and created through language. - Idea of having a choice is based on language Today’s Agenda 1. What makes a fashion entrepreneur? 2. Who is my consumer? 3. How do I cast models to benefit my brand? What is a fashion Entrepreneur? 1. pays a certain price for a product to resell it at a higher price. Focus is on profit 2. Sees an opportunity and creates an organization to pursue it. They are looking for gaps in the market. (it’s a way of thinking, nothing about profit, a social entrepreneur…) 3. Take responsibility for creating innovation within an organization (being a leader within the business) What makes an entrepreneur? 1. personal attributes (they believe) 2. Environmental factors ( family/friends that supports them, loan or grant programs, 3. Sociological factors (age and role models, more successful when they are young, ) Darwinian Identity - motivated to make money, all about profit - business approach, traditional framework - beat rivals, distinct from other firms - us versus them.. the best will prevail - Harry Rosen Communitarian Identity - Give back to the community based on their own experiences - See others in the industry as their peers, others can benefit - Whatever I do is helping others - Business of fashion blog. Missionary Identity - they want to be the agent of change - create a better world - personal responsibility to act - its not about money, its about benefiting the society at large. - Robyn Kay- started Toronto fashion week, difficult to be a Canadian designer, goal was to create a platform to help Canadian designers. Celebrating Canadian fashion was celebrating Canadian culture Coleen Mills NZ.. Fashion entrepreneurs, biggest challenges tension between being creative but also realizing the business side of it Created three categories 1. Creative enterprise orientation a. Outlet to express their creativity b. See themselves as a creative person c. Trisha Hall- stylist =, loves the creativity, sees herself as creative, stylist for VAWK
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