FSN 223 Lecture 2
Fashion, diffusion and change.
Individuality vs. the group – mipsterz
Muslim women who wear head scarf but wear clothes they want.
Mipsterz express individuality while still trying to show respect.
The new sumptuary laws?
Trends or tips on how to look better – new sumptuary laws. Who’s creating this rules?
Where does it come from? Do I think differently? Do I really like this? Do I
agree/disagree? What am I following this for?
Diversity Network – edinburg college of art
Creating for more diverse students
Lookin to have skype convos student to student
100 years of fashion – superstarmagazine.com/100yearsoffashion
Agenda How is fashion diffused?
1My fashion inspiration
2Trickle up, down and across
4The cycles of fashion
where does you fashion inspiration come from?
As a consumer? Magazines, celebrities, streetstyle,
As a creative? Pictures, stories, illustrations, art
Trickle down theory
Fashion trends start among the elite or fashion leaders and move down to the masses or
fashion followers. Used to be with the class structure.
Thorstein Veblen – industrial expansion – society has classes. Lower and working classes
very different form the rich.
Conspicuous consumption – buy goods and publicly display the power you have.
Publicly displaying your wealth
Georg simmel – 3 main stages. The wealthy class differentiate themselves. The
workin/lower class try to look like they are part of upper class. Once the wealthy class
saw this they changed their look by buying new looks.
Imitation and creation of new styles. This fuels fashion change according to this theory. Grant mccracken – culture and consumption idea – being part of elite group is not based
on amount of money you make. The most powerful and influential are the elite.
Who are the other fashion leaders today?
Does fashion trickle down to everyone?
Panic, style scarcity, fat style is a scarce resource – for plus size
Trickle up theory
Fashion trends start amongst the massed and they move upwards toward the elite.
The idea that fashion trends come from everyday life and every day people. They move
up the pyramid toward the leaders.
George A. Field – status float phenomenon
To show they were part of a cause or a movement by changing their clothes and fashion
choices. Once these styles were taken by designers, they changed their style.
Ted polhemus – bubble up
Urge to be authentic. Need to be an individual. Ppl use to express who they are, their
attitude, their interests.
Still inspired to copy looks but it’s to be authentic.
Denim is a great example. Durable and practicle product. originally made for farmers and
now its taken up by high end fashion.
New balance running shoe was stylish for runners and now everyone wears sneakers.
Vivienne westwood. Being a punk.
Bloggers to magazines.
Baseball caps starts for little games, now everyone wears them during fashion week, etc.
How has the internet and social media changed the trickle up dynamic?
More styles everywhere – more opportunity to see more styles – more international.
Style surfing – ted polhemus
People changed subcultured a lot
Style surfing at odds with industry
When will todays fashion journalist realize that their job now is to celebrate and present
the diversity which is all around us rather than to try to cram everything into a single
direction? Fashion commnetators and journalists. Is style being celebrated or are we just
concentrating on specific trends?
Has street style been coopted by the fashion elite?
Trickle across theory
Fashion moves horizontally from fashion leaders to masses at same social level
Trends still move
But they move among the elite or the working class so they move within their group.
Mass media – see fashion from around the world
So the consumer is more aware of the latest fashion trends
Balmain Homme FW2010 vs, zara FW2010
Where is the line between between stealing and inspiration.
SS2008 mercy vs. DVF 2009
Derik lamm 700$ vs. ivanka trump 150$
Elites > mass population
Idea that we copy the elites – the rich – the influential and powerful.
Mass pop > elites