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Lecture 3

Fashion Theory Week 3.docx

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FSN 232
Joanne Mc Neish

Fashion Theory Week 3 Noreen Flanagan, Editor in Chief, Elle Canada Sample Sizes – magazine and designers contribute to small sizes; its very complicated Eg designer ship sign 5 to vogue, 8 to elle etc “one size fits all” bag – sooo much effort, weeks of negotiating diversity: producer said don't put a black model on the cover, the magazine wont sell as well Noreen tested this theory: it did drop; but she isn’t stopping with this – 3/12 in 2013 will be black They try to get a range of images Ben barry wrote a story last year about his research This year, a spread with a whole diversity of people! Noreen: - studied to be a nurse, psychiatrist – worked with lots of girls with eating disorders - travelled for a year: Iran, Pakistan, Napul - worked at a clinic, decided she rather be writing about the clinic than be working in it - worked for 1 year because she needed money - went back to school for journalism - worked at a small newspaper, worked at a fishing magazine - got married, travelled to central America - flare – health editor - moved to elle - keep your eyes open for opportunities! - Works with marketing, advertising, goes to events, emails, fashion weeks - Elle’s creator: was interested in a magazine that culture, fashion, lifestyle etc - All newsstands sales are down, ppl will probably fully switch to the ipod - Published sales are down but still higher than ipad - On average for ebery magazine sold, about 12 ppl see it – share – don't share their ipad - On ipad you’ll see more photos. Behind the scenes, more info - No money to pay for ipad now - What isn’t dead is story telling through visuals, words etc – may not be in traditional magazine - We’re all responsible on some level for white, skinny etc - Target woman: always have had a broad viewer, curious mind about fashion and beauty - Fb, twitter good way to see what they do and do not want - Debate is good, its important - How far in advance? 3-6 months - How many men work at elle: 1 - But many writers + others in quebec - Key message: diversity or lack of is COMPLICATEd - Fashion is a system – designer, magazine, consumers etc - Its no ones fault, everyone has a role Fashion images convery images by who is or isn’t included, and their facial expression There are multiple ways to read an image, symbols, challenge them What conventions explain the representation of women in fashion? Western beauty ideal Objectification and the gaze Dismemberment How do these conventions apply to men? Jean Kilbourne “Cant buy my love” Feminist, scholar, author - talks about advertising, what images are these images sending, even if not intended, what are the affects Ashley Mears was a model but now has a PHD, she looked at how one model gets selected over the other, if they have the same physical . ben studied with her Western Beauty Ideal - normative body promoted in fashion (global) - 5’10-5’11; size: 0-2; Age 13-22; Caucasian; Able Bodied - 34-24-34 - 90% of women in the US don't fit this criteria - average 5’4, size 12 - hasn't always been this way: size 8 for model in 80s and 90s - average model is 23% less weight today, before 8% - models are thinnest they have ever been Charles Worth: British fashion designer started the model: instead of mannequins: live mannequins! He wasn't looking for a specific body, just wanted them to have good manners. Used thicker models because he thought they wore his clothes better. Size 0 hasn't always been the norm In past, the curvy women were better. Taken venus picture and photoshop so that she is ideal now “Men wouldn't look at me when I was skinny – gain 10lbs” etc in the 30s they wanted to be thicker and gain weight What is the meaning of only thin models? There is nothing wrong with being skinny, its just that its too exclusive. This portrays that there is only one look of beauty Thin models represent power, the slimming of model goes hand in hand with the rising of women social, political and economical status. BUT this makes women focus on weight more than other things. By thinning models, they are trying to take away their power Social media etc has increased exposure to thin girls Jean Kilbour Naiomi Woolf What is the impact of ultra thin models? They do not cause eating disorders but they relate Anne Becker went to Fiji before and after US television was introduced 74% felt too big, 66% started dying  a relationship and influence once you only see it Why is there only one beauty image? Maintain distinc
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