FSN 223 Lecture Notes - Aimee Mullins, Fashion Blog, Dita Von Teese

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Published on 22 Apr 2013
School
Ryerson University
Department
Fashion
Course
FSN 223
Professor
Page:
of 21
FSN 223
Week 7
Fashion, The Body and Identity II
For Plus-Size Men
- Discussion article
- Review of Chubstr website gives them their expertise and tips for styling
- Market that is not catered towards
-Blackface- old theatre makeup…
- Barbie and Ideal femininity made of plastic
1. Identity to Identities
a. Black women and hair
b. People with disabilities and fashion
c. Gay men and body image
2. Queering Identities
3. Review assignment
a. Object analysis
b. Requirements
Intersectionality- Kimberle Crenshaw 1989
- law student
- US antidiscrimination law wasn’t protecting black women
- Black women were the last to be hired and the first to be fired because of
discrimination
- Being discriminated because of both gender and racial identity
- Intersectionality black women weret being protected because they were
looking at one identity at a time- gender or race
o Our identity is multi-dimensional
o Our identity is comprised of all our different identity categories
o Each identity category intersects and interacts to form our complete
identity
- Individual-> society all the categories we belong to add to our identity-
ability, gender, social class, culture, age…. If affects the way society looks at
you and how you look at society … affects our choice of clothing
Politics of Hair
- gender, race, sexuality..
- “Good Hair”- long straight silky seemingly white
- Peter Brown- black people and white people were from different species-
white people had hair while black people have wool.
- Hose slaves had to iron their hair to look as white as possible
- Slaves in the field would wear scarfs around their hair, on their day off the
women got together and would braid their hair
- Black women having natural hair showed power, pride, resistance, and
challenge- it was a political statement
- Angela David- activist for women and natural hair
- 90s- Naomi Campbell-pin straight hair= upper class- natural hair was lower
status.
- Black women were told to have their hair straightened, braided or short
because it was more professional
- Philomena Kwao- natural short hair, but is forced to wear a wig when
modeling
- White women have different types of hair too- curly, wavy etc.
- Body work- hair is always a work in progress… intensified by consumer
culture
- Oprah Winfrey- first time in 12 years she had natural hair 2012…
- Joan Small- one of the first models in vogue that had her natural hair
How might black women’s intersection with age influence the way in which they
style their hair?
Do other identity groups have their own “good hair” myths?
People with Disabilities- Izzy Camilleri
- wheelchairs, always have to have modifications
- Izzy- Toronto based designer- luxury clothes (featured in the devil wears
prada).. she had one customer who was in a wheelchair, and had to have
everything modified. Izzy worked with her and opened her eyes to the
market. IZ Adaptive Clothing- clothes that work best for the seated person-
men and women. It’s about accepting people no different from you and I.
Very successful. Fashionable clothes for people who use wheelchairs. Offers
her clients inclusion and self expression
- Amputees. Prosthetic limbs.
- Aimee Mullins, Mario Calla… runway models. Pro- esthetic. It is an accessory.
Aimee- olympian modeling in alexander mcqueen . One day she can be 5,8’
one day she can be 6,2”.. she has 12 sets of legs. Changeable accessory.
Architects of their own identity . Mario- Hugo Boss gave him shorts..
empowering
- Kelly Knox- born without a left arm past the elbow. She doesn’t try to hide it.
She wants to show everyone this is who I am.
- In many ways they represent the western beauty ideal but they only deviate
from the ideal in one way- a disability.
Gay Men and Body Image- Interview
- brief encounters, top male models showing off the new boxers and briefs
- gay men show more concern over their weight and appearance
- threat of rejection from partners and gay community
- they feel like there is a stereotype they need to live up to. Feminized, well-
groomed, certain speech, etc.
- Gay Sub-Cultures- Leather, trendy, preppy, jock, drag… each has their own
standards. Added pressure
How might gay men’s intersection with race and/or disability influence their body
image?
- intersections.. race, gender, culture.. harder for certain men to come out
- In media.. gay men are 99% Caucasian
What are the personal costs of deviating from the appearance expectations of your
“community” or sub-culture?
….
- Fab magazine- Gay man in wheelchair…. Attitude of the community toward
my difference. Getting the community to understand that I am no different.
Queering Identities
Judith Butler- Gender Trouble.. Queer theory.. troubling & challenging categories of
identity
Queer theory
- Contests fixed binary identity categories… either male or female.. 1% of
people intersex.
o Classifying people into binary categories…
o Either homosexual or heterosexual relationship.
o Sexuality can be simply divided into categories- queer theory
challenges this
- Challenges that one identity category is naturally connected to another
o Males are masculine, Females are feminine.
o Males can be feminine and females can be masculine
o You can feel like any gender you choose
We wear clothes to hide ourselves but we wear clothes that show which gender we
are…
Andre Pejic.. models for men and women. He can perform any gender.
Casey Legler.. she models gendered masculine clothes. She can perform masculine
gender.
Gender is independent. We have the choice.
J.W. Anderson.. challenged traditionally gendered clothing… skirts for men- very
masculine because you can show your thigh which is very manly…
People may still be faced with resistance if they try this… Strong control.. gender
clothes have to match your sex.

Document Summary

Review of chubstr website gives them their expertise and tips for styling. Barbie and ideal femininity made of plastic: identity to identities, black women and hair, people with disabilities and fashion, gay men and body image, queering identities, review assignment, object analysis, requirements. Us antidiscrimination law wasn"t protecting black women. Black women were the last to be hired and the first to be fired because of discrimination. Being discriminated because of both gender and racial identity. Individual-> society all the categories we belong to add to our identity- ability, gender, social class, culture, age . If affects the way society looks at you and how you look at society affects our choice of clothing. Peter brown- black people and white people were from different species- Good hair - long straight silky seemingly white white people had hair while black people have wool. Hose slaves had to iron their hair to look as white as possible.