Topic 5 - Coastlines.pdf

5 Pages

Earth and Atmospheric Sciences
Course Code
Solweig Balzer

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Coastal Zones OverviewBasics terminology Coastal processes and sea level changesProblems solutions recognising a hazardCoastlinesCan be rapidly changing or relatively stableUsually areas of high population densityShoreline geometry is determined by plate tectonicsActive marginPassive marginGloballyActive MarginCliffs above water lineNarrow continental shelfFairly deep drop to oceanic depths offshorePassive MarginBroad continental shelfExtensive development of broad beaches sandy offshore islandsWavesInduced by the flow of wind across the water surfaceSmall undulations in the surfaceRefracted wavesCause erosion and deposition along shorelinesMost approach shore at an oblique angle and are refractedResults in longshore current and longshore driftShoreline ErosionPounding by waterMilling and abrasion by entrained particlesGenerally concentrated at the water lineShoreline terminologyWave base Depth at which water motion is negligibleBreakerWhen wave crest velocityvelocity at baseSurf zoneRegion from the Break zone to the Swash zoneLongshore current and longshore drift
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