EAS100 Lecture Notes - Lecture 16: Upwelling, Refraction, Plate Tectonics

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EAS100 Full Course Notes
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EAS100 Full Course Notes
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Usually happens for a week or two in the winter. Longshore transport, when waves are not parallel to shore, sediments carried along shore. Waves change direction because of drag at bottom: wave refraction. Result of the change of force as distance is increased. Lunar cycle: 24:48 (rotation of moon around the earth) Most areas experience high tides every ~12 hours, 24 minutes. Oscillation of 1m in open ocean tidal range amplified by shoreline: baythymetry - up to 16m. Sun also causes tides but only ~half as effective. Lowest high tides when moon at right angles relative to. Amphidromic points: "fulcrum points" where tides do not change sun. levels. Need: 1) warm ocean water (> 27 deg c) Conditions met @ latitudes 5 deg - 20 deg latitudes. As pressure (5%) and winds (95%) move water a storm surge results. Emergant coastland: e. g. new guinea by tectonic uplift. Eustatic "worldwide" changes: changes in ice volume (antartica, greenland) ridge systems)

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