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HECOL268 (20)
Anne Burke (18)
Lecture 12

HECOL268 Lecture 12: Lesson 12

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University of Alberta
Human Ecology
Anne Burke

Chap 11: THE NINETEENTH CENTURY Late directoire 1798-1799 Second half of the directoire: NORMATIVE compare normative and extreme Fabric not transparent, white color for most of the gown but with COLORED TRIM, headdress typically worn. Long sleeves, short by 1799. Waistline below the bust, skirt varies EXTREME: incroyable et Merveilleuse, sheer dress, roman cross lace sandals, fig. 11.3. white color, head dress not mandatory, little or no sleeve, waistline below the bust. Little to no petticoat worn, Greek and Roman type sandals. Hair cut short or arranged in Greek styles. Female fashion extremists were called merveilleuses (women) and incroyables (men). Caricatures are different to fashion plates. Some gesture help to delineate the body. For men Archeological discovery: revival of interest in classical styles. Classical statuary on the nacked perfect body. Light color in breeches and waist coat. Why light color? Period of extremes The age of nudity frenetic dancing, a new aristrocaty. Supremati of styles based on the Ancient Greeks: low necklines, high waists, beginning of little or no sleeve in the Merveilleuses. Bared their breast. Women in statues exposed their back side. New Erogenous Zone CONSULATE AND EMPIRE Napoleon Bonaparte Attempts to create the elegance of court to stimulate the economy and gain credibility. Very smart, well educated, crowned emperor, educational reforms, the government run better, often wear military garments. Napoleonic Wars end with the battle of Waterloo (1815). Break in communication between English and French, also separate fashion. THE EMPIRE starts in 1814, napoleon crown himself and his wife for 35 years=autocracy, elaborate fabrics silk brocade. The emperor Napoleon Bonaparte economic policies pushed silk and embellishment in court dress that resembled styles from the Ancient Regime. Women and men dress used silk, change in women English styles to French styles later England; Regency: king was incapable to rule, so he was replaced by someone else. Concurrent styles (silk and cotton): white garments with dark embroidery, silk garments. Women Pantalettes wear by children later - Linen or cotton long drawers - Open at crotch
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