EOSC 114 Lecture Notes - Lecture 18: Wave Base, Wave Power, Waves
20 Apr 2018
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Learning goals: explain how waves move matter and energy, identify key properties of waves, use these properties to determine wave speed and behaviour in either shallow or deep water. Waves - we learned about waves in the earthquakes section of class: Body (p and s) or surface (rayleigh and love) waves. Medium/matter (rock or ground) moves as waves pass; but net motion is zero various speeds. Water moves as waves pass; but net motion is zero. Generated by wind and other geological events. A wavelength (l or upside down y) = distance for one full cycle (ex. crest-to- crest, or trough-to-trough) Crest = highest point trough = lowest point cre waveleng. Wave height (h) = vertical distance from crest to trough. Amplitude (a) = h/2 (one-half the height) Steepness = h/l (height divided by wavelength) Sea: jumble of waves of various lengths and directions. Swell: series of waves generated at a distance; well-sorted.
