EOSC 114 Lecture Notes - Lecture 20: The Trough, Wave Height, Seiche

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Can be very dangerous and unpredictable - especially if over-steepened. Can be 3-4 times larger than other waves in the same area. Most hazardous for ships at sea, but they can also hit the coast and injure/drown people on shore. Cape of good hope is notorious for rogue waves. Rogue waves produced when strong currents collide w. large wind-driven waves. A standing wave in an enclosed or semi-enclosed body of water. Resonance t is longer for larger bodies of water: T(coffeecup) < 1 second why t(lake) ~ minutes-hours. Period depends on the shape of the water body and its shoreline. Fault motion on floor or landslides into the water body. Rapid displacement of large amounts of ocean water. Japanese for (cid:3243)harbour wave(cid:3244) tsu = harbour, nami = wave. Wave speed (c) = ~200 m/s (720 km/hr) Wave height (h) = ~0. 5-1 m (very small!) Steepness (h/l) = 1 m / 200,000 m <<< 1! (very tiny - almost flat)

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