EESB18H3 Lecture Notes - Surf Zone, Dune, Breaking Wave

82 views8 pages

Document Summary

Lecture seven: energy traveling along the interface between ocean and atmosphere, derive their energy and motion from wind, waves can travel great distance (> 10000 km, circular orbital motion, parts. S trough: wave height, length and period depend on. S fetch distance wind travels: as wave travels, water passes energy along by moving in a circle. S at a depth of about one-half the wavelength, the movement of. In very shallow water (depth < 0. 05l where l = wavelength) motion at bottom is nearly horizontal (rather than circular) N eg: 1 meter long wavelength would be 0. 05(1m) = 5cm: swell wave sets generated by storms far out at the sea. S any wave that has traveled out of its area of origination: rouge waves when series of similar-size waves meet and coalesce, changes that occur when a wave moves onto shore.

Get access

Grade+20% off
$8 USD/m$10 USD/m
Billed $96 USD annually
Grade+
Homework Help
Study Guides
Textbook Solutions
Class Notes
Textbook Notes
Booster Class
40 Verified Answers
Class+
$8 USD/m
Billed $96 USD annually
Class+
Homework Help
Study Guides
Textbook Solutions
Class Notes
Textbook Notes
Booster Class
30 Verified Answers

Related Documents