EESB18H3 Lecture Notes - Surf Zone, Dune, Breaking Wave
10 Nov 2010
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Lecture seven: energy traveling along the interface between ocean and atmosphere, derive their energy and motion from wind, waves can travel great distance (> 10000 km, circular orbital motion, parts. S trough: wave height, length and period depend on. S fetch distance wind travels: as wave travels, water passes energy along by moving in a circle. S at a depth of about one-half the wavelength, the movement of. In very shallow water (depth < 0. 05l where l = wavelength) motion at bottom is nearly horizontal (rather than circular) N eg: 1 meter long wavelength would be 0. 05(1m) = 5cm: swell wave sets generated by storms far out at the sea. S any wave that has traveled out of its area of origination: rouge waves when series of similar-size waves meet and coalesce, changes that occur when a wave moves onto shore.
