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Should contain everything covered in lecture

8 Pages

Environmental Science
Course Code
Jovan Stefanovic

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Lecture Seven N Waves o Energy traveling along the interface between ocean and atmosphere o Derive their energy and motion from wind o Waves can travel great distance (> 10000 km) o Circular orbital motion o Parts Crest Trough o Wave height, length and period depend on Wind Speed Length of time wind blows Fetch distance wind travels o As wave travels, water passes energy along by moving in a circle Waveform moves forwad At a depth of about one-half the wavelength, themovement of water particles becomes negligible (wave base) In very shallow water (depth < 0.05L where L = wavelength) motion at bottom is nearly horizontal (rather than circular) N Eg: 1 meter long wavelength would be 0.05(1M) = 5cm o Swell Wave sets generated by storms far out at the sea Any wave that has traveled out of its area of origination o Rouge Waves When series of similar-size waves meet and coalesce o Changes that occur when a wave moves onto shore As wave touches bottom of shore the bottom of the wave begins to slow down while the top of the wave rZ original speed. The wave speed decreases, and the waves stack up against the shore. Causing wavelength to decrease and height to increase.
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