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Lecture 8

FCS195H1 Lecture Notes - Lecture 8: Elsa Schiaparelli, Paul Poiret, Jean Cocteau

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FCS195 - Lecture 8 11-11-20 8:13 PM
Fashion and the “New Woman”
Last time we spoke of fashion beginning of 19th century (Joséphine)
The next Napoléon in 1854 had a wife and she liked elaborate dresses.
Fashion in the 19th century went back to i.e. corsets and complicated
dressing styles for women
Herminie Cadolle
Invents First Bra in 1889
Paul Poiret
Designs clothes and tries to eliminate the corset forever.
Tries to “free” the woman
Invents new kinds of dresses with a waistline that went under the
breast and the rest of the body was very free (especially in the
used the bra and forgets the corset
He prides himself in being a “liberator” for women. However, the
dresses were very long and not very convenient if we needed to
Very inspired by Art Nouveau
Coco Chanel
First major female designer fashion was male dominated even
though it was addressed to women
Invents knee-high skirts which was scandalous
Goal: To fashion clothes that would allow women to really take part
of modern life going to work, riding a bike etc…
o Easy to wear
o Not complicated
o “For the active, modern woman”
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o Plain style
She used men’s styles very much she was the first who invented
women’s pants and suits
o Comfort this brings a sense of ease and confidence
o Ties and suits for women this was very scandalous at the
o Tanning
o Creates the “little black dress” black becomes a sign of
o Creates the association between haute couture designers and
Elsa Schiaparelli
Not influential in day-to-day wear
First to invent the “skort” (skirt with shorts underneath)
Invents the trompe-l’oeil sweaters (optical illusions on the sweater)
Up to this point, dresses were the sign of elegance, Chanel started
to popularize trousers, Schiaparelli made the sweater a classy
fashion apparel for women she popularized the sweater as being
something classy
She collaborates with Jean Cocteau and puts optical illusions and
creates high class dresses
o Her fashion becomes an art shoe hats, arlequin coats,
monkey hair shoes etc…
Shocking dresses were called so because they used the colour pink
a lot
Sonia Delaunay
Interested in geometrical abstract art calls this “simultaneous
o Her dresses have geometrical patterns and lots of coulour
She created matching outfits
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