Earth Sciences 1022A/B Lecture Notes - Lecture 14: Wave-Cut Platform, Surf Zone, Beach Nourishment
9 Apr 2018
School
Department
Course
Professor
Document Summary
Earth sciences 1022a lecture brief 24 nov 15. Waves: from wind blowing over the ocean; a surface waveform of energy moves through the water whose molecules move side to side and up and down. Sand movement on the beach: waves bend as they approach an irregular shoreline (wave refraction) so that erosion focuses on headlands, deposition occurs in bays. Many coastlines start out with an irregular shape as a series of headlands and bays but continued cliff retreat and sand deposition tend to straighten out the shoreline. Stabilizing the shoreline: erosion can be fast, damaging during storms . Beach nourishment can be attempted but requires a lot of sand, very expensive, only lasts several years and requires continual maintenance and more sand and money.
