Earth Sciences 1022A/B Lecture Notes - Lecture 19: Beach Nourishment, Mouth Bar, Refraction
10 Jan 2017
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Document Summary
A surface waveform of energy moves through the water whose molecules move side to side and up and down. As a wave approaches the shore it feels bottom and breaks into surf that moves up a beach as swash then water flows back down as backwash. A storm waves erodes headlands by wave impact compressing air fractures, by abrasion, undercutting. Waves bend as they approach an irregular shoreline (wave refraction) so that erosion focuses on headlands, and deposits in bays. Most waves hit the shore at an angle and move sediment along beaches by the zigzag pattern of swash and backwash called beach drift. Also oblique waves in the surf zone produce long shore currents that flow parallel to the shore move most of the sediment in transport that is supplied mainly by rivers. Shoreline features (depends on geology and wave activity)
