Factors paving way for celebrity designers: expansion of urban civilization, growing dependence on mechanization and reorganization of labour in industrial manufacturing. Paris md 19th c was thee fashion city of at least 100 years. French fashion as means of control and self promotion. State sponsorship of the textile and decorative art industry. 17th century court dress characterized by its formal construction, rigid composition and hierarchical orders of decoration. Use of decoration changed styles more than cut. By the start of the 19th century fashionable clothing went from court to select group of innovators. Rose bertin was the dressmaker for marie antoinette. City center stores played crucial pack in introducing new styles and trends on a much wider scale. Ability to choose and manipulate fabrics to suit client. Signature lay in play of textures, patterns and attention to cyt and finely tailored finish. Began work at worth"s office and began tailor assistant.