Visual Arts History 1043A/B Lecture Notes - Haute Couture, The Roots, Paul Poiret

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Fashion (Oxford History of Art): Christopher Breward
Chapter One
The Rise of The Designer
-factors paving way for celebrity designers: expansion of urban
civilization, growing dependence on mechanization and
reorganization of labour in industrial manufacturing
>The Roots of Modern Fashion
-Paris md 19th c was thee fashion city of at least 100 years
-French fashion as means of control and self promotion
-state sponsorship of the textile and decorative art industry
-17th century court dress characterized by its formal construction, rigid
composition and hierarchical orders of decoration
-use of decoration changed styles more than cut
>The First Fashion Designers
-by the start of the 19th century fashionable clothing went from court
to select group of innovators
-Rose Bertin was the dressmaker for Marie Antoinette
-inspired Louis Hyppolie Leroy
-1850s and 1860s emerge of grand couture
-modern fashion was born
>Charles Frederick Worth
-the father of couture
-city center stores played crucial pack in introducing new styles and
trends on a much wider scale
-inspired by galleries, theaters and bookshops
-ability to choose and manipulate fabrics to suit client
-1858 opened own dressmaking business
-signature lay in play of textures, patterns and attention to cyt and
finely tailored finish
>Paul Poiret
-origins in drapery
-sold dress designs to couturiers
-began work at Worth’s office and began tailor assistant
-issues of copyright lead to the idea of the designer
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