EPS 80 Lecture Notes - Lecture 9: Tide, Beach Nourishment, Longshore Drift

• School: Berkeley
• Department: Earth And Planetary Science
• Course: EPS 80
• Professor: Hassler Scott

Document Summary

Types of ocean waves: tsunami - rare, storm surge - increasingly common, cyclonic storms, tides - 2x/day, 1. The daily tidal cycle is due to the gravitational pull of the moon on the oceans: 2. The bulge is large when the moon and sun are in line - this is the spring tide: 3. The bulge is at its smallest when the moon is along the line of the earth"s orbit around the sun - this is a neap tide: wind-driven waves - ~27,000/day (most common) Erodes and transports and deposits sediment (the sand is actually moving laterally along the coast) As water is heated, the water actually expands; ocean is actually expanding thermally through time. Sea level rise causes coastal migration (34:55) As storm surges causes erosion of sand towards shoreline, the beach migrates closer and closer to shoreline. Sea level also causes shorelines to move.