GRS IR 701 Lecture Notes - Lecture 13: Longshore Drift

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Sand accumulated on the north side of a groin indicates that the direction of longshore drift is to the north. Ocean waves that have a long wavelength will generate surf farther from shore than those with a short wavelength. Marine terraces are an indication of uplift or lowering of sea level. Sea stacks represent erosional remnants following sea cliff retreat. Waves that are oblique to a shoreline tend to bend into near parallelism with the shoreline, generate longshore currents and drift, lead to the formation of rip currents, and build spits acorss estuaries and channels. The characteristics of an uplifted coastline include sea cliffs, marine terraces, and sea stacks. A pinnacle of rock standing out to sea near a sea cliff is a sea stack. The migrating deposit of sand that moves parallel to the coastline and across an estuary is a sand spit.

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