GEOL 1010 Lecture 11: Waves
16 Dec 2018
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Document Summary
Waves are a disturbance or an oscillation that contain energy. Wave motion is at air water interface water passes energy. Circular orbital motion, forward on crest, backward on trough. At the surface, diameter is the height of the wave. Orbit diameter decreases at depth because the wind doesn t influence it as much. Wave motion extends to a depth of half a wave length. At depth, l/2 the bottom interferes, which creates drag. Orbits become more optical instead of being circular, l and velocity decrease, height increases. Hil 1:7 wave breaks, some energy erodes shoreline. In open water, wave motions extends as deep as the wave bale or l/2. Waves breaks as they approach the shore because wave energy passes through water as it approaches the shallow area. Waves approach the shore at a parallel angle and the l/2 hits first, and the rest of the wave swings around.
