FDM 10033 Lecture Notes - Lecture 9: Dobby Loom, Satin, Eyelash
3 Aug 2016
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Document Summary
Complex weave- use special equipment or a combination of basic weaves. Complex and pile weaves: incorporate design into fabric, chart 11. 1 page 69. Crepe- produced with highly twisted yarns (crepe yarn) in plain or satin weave (true crepe: momie, granite, or crepe weave, apply a finish (embossing) Momie weave- looks like the surface is sprinkled with spots: irregular interlacing pattern, made on a dobby loom with electronic control, swatch #96 georgette. Crepe fabric- excellent drape, resiliency, elasticity: low luster, grainy, rough hand. Slack tension weave- use two warp beams: one tight and one loose, slack yarns crinkle forming a puckered strip, stripes in warp direction on grain, expensive process- slow weaving, little to no ironing needed, swatch #91 seer sucker. Pique- fabric with ridges, wales, or cords: usually lengthwise, technical front and back, wrinkle resistant, more body than flat fabric, stuffer yarn- laid under ridges in better quality pique.
