01:460:110 Lecture Notes - Lecture 6: Refraction, Longshore Drift, Natural Disaster
26 Sep 2017
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Document Summary
Result of wind blowing over the ocean surface. Duration of wind blowing in constant direction. Wave height is difference between crest and trough. Half the wavelength, bottom effects result in elliptical orbits rather than circular orbits. Most waves approach the beach at an angle which is called wave refraction. One side hits the ground first which slows the waves so the other part"s speed is still. Generally a dominant direction that results from the refraction constant. Horizontal component of the vector of the wave. 2 high tides and 2 low tides per day usually caused by the moon. Sun and moon are in a line with the earth creating a larger tide tide. Where there is a high tide in one place, on the opposite side of the earth, there is a low. Tide range in new jersey is microtidal. Mud is <0. 063 mm; unaided eye cannot see grains; feels gritty (silt) or slimy (clay); muds.
