OCNG 251 Lecture Notes - Lecture 8: Wind Wave, Ekman Spiral, Wave Power
8 May 2017
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Document Summary
Waves= movement of energy at density boundaries between 2 fluids: different water masses, occurs in water and air. Disturbing force= energy that causes waves to form: wind is primary force for the ocean. Mass movements into the ocean: calving of icebergs, landslides (coastal) Seafloor movement: turbidity currents, fault slippages, volcanic eruptions. Tides: caused by gravitational pull of the sun and the moon. Energy transmitted by wave, however the matter (liquid, gas, solid) does(cid:374)"t travel in direction of energy passing through it: solid (cid:449)ith (cid:449)a(cid:448)es: earth"s (cid:272)ore or la(cid:374)d/o(cid:272)ea(cid:374) plates. So if wave is traveling horizontally, particles are compressed closer together then expand: ex: earthquakes. So if a wave is traveling horizontally, vibrations will be up and down: ex: light waves, water waves. Wave height (h)= vertical distance between crest and trough. Crest = top of wave, highest point. Wavelength (l)= horizontal distance between successive troughs or crests: whole wave. Still water level= half way in between crest and trough.
