CTD 231 Lecture 10: CTD 231 Chapter 10 Notes

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Clothing, Textiles and Interior Design
CTD 231

CTD 231 Chapter 10 Notes Translating Concept to Product Patternmaking • Patternmaking - interpretation of garment concept from either a paper presentation or model for use in production of sketch or another existing product, into finished garment style • Capabilities for projected product style must match original garment concept, yet also meet target customer expectations Methods of Pattern Development • Flat Pattern — involves making styling changes to basic two-dimensional pattern ➢ Sloper: five-piece pattern of previously developed and perfected basic body blocks ➢ Select previously perfected final pattern or body similar to new style ➢ First pattern version usually made up in fabric as first sample Pattern Drafting • Begins from scratch for each garment style • First body measurements taken • Style lines and ease added, resulting in two-dimensional paper patterns • Done by hand or digitally • More time-consuming and costly; used by higher-priced, fashion-forward producers Reverse Engineering • Pattern made either by transferring measurements of another garment to paper or taking apart existing garment and tracing or digitizing outline of pieces • Cost-effective for production of basic garments Draping • Fabric draped or shaped around the body form to create a three-dimensional garment prototype • Once fabric pattern is established, shaped fabric is flattened and its outline transferred to paper or digitized to create two-dimensional pattern blocks • Used for higher price points, especially with unique silhouettes New Technologies • Cutting edge → draping styles directly on computer; elusive due to nature of body movements and variations in textile properties • Body scan technology enables retrieval of three-dimensional body measurements from consumer, applied digitally to produce customized product Patternmaking Needs • Design-Driven Product Development ➢ Integrity of design is more important than the production efficiency ➢ Willing to deal with more complex patterns and construction ➢ Fabrics less standard, markers vary in efficiency, specialized sewing capabilities, smaller quantities ➢ Offshore contractors ➢ May make in-house for accuracy and fit • Manufacturing-Driven Product Development ➢ “Commoditize” style by lowering level of detail, uniqueness, or fit ➢ Simplify construction techniques ➢ Patterns made easy to sew to produce as many finished garments at lowest possible price in timely manner Sourcing Patternmaking • Many advantages of in-house patternmaking within the firm ➢ Fit: experience with target market allows accommodations to meet customer expectations; market proximity allows for frequent fittings ➢ Rely on computerized systems to provide greater accuracy, pattern storage, grading, and customized dress forms Patternmaking Services • Viable options for those without resources to hire own patternmakers • Computerized system gives accuracy and efficiency without investment • Located regionally so corrections made quickly and efficiently • Maintain files of previous work Full-Service Contractors • Assume all responsibility for patternmaking, allowing developers to concentrate on their own core competencies • May be sacrificing consistency, fit, and construction details across the brand • Common in Asia; Central and South America, Caribbean looking to compete Additional Considerations • Patternmakers trained in different parts of the world use different methods, different perceptions of body and proportions • Time required to check samples • Lack of familiarity with English measurements • Problem-solving and communication skills important while working against the clock • Possible duplication of effort Standards • Firm’s strategic plan provides foundation for standards that define the busin
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