CTD 231 Lecture 11: CTD 231 Chapter 11 Notes

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Clothing, Textiles and Interior Design
CTD 231

CTD 231 Chapter 11 Notes Sizing and Fit Sizing • Sizing: assignment of individuals of particular body type into categories that reflect the body measurements of those in that size group • Sizing issues common to all categories of clothing but more fully documented in women’s ready-to-wear • Major source of sizing problems → diversity of U.S. population • FTC, DOC attempted to standardize; no mandatory standards in U.S. History of Women’s Apparel Sizing • Charts developed to reflect groupings of young and mature • First American sizing charts developed because catalog firms needed some consistency in measurement • Original charts inadequate with increasing diversity in population First Sizing Systems • Data collected by military in 1941 form women in the U.S. Army at the time • Revised by NIST in 1971 to reflect ethnic diversity and age group representation • Original military data reworked and adapted several times • 1994 ASTM published revision reflecting what was believed to be measurements in use Updates • 1980s University of Arizona at Tucson study of women over age 55; reflected need for fitting changes for mature customers • Last decade ASTM updated size ranges for petites and women’s sizes, added maternity • Many consumers, manufacturers, and retailers agree that voluntary sizing does not represent women’s body measurements New Body Measurement Data • SizeUSA → anthropomorphic study; purpose was to gather actual body measurement data on U.S. consumers using a 3D measurement system and body scanner and feed data into measurement extraction software • Janice Wang → cause of ill-fitting garments is industry misconception of hourglass figure as dominant body shape • Using SizeUSA data, Istook defined body shapes with four dominant types: ➢ Rectangle shape ➢ Spoon shape ➢ Inverted triangle ➢ Hourglass o Dominant shape closer to pear shape than hourglass ➢ Only 10-20% of most groups fit ASTM standard size tables Women’s Sizing • Sized for adult women; assigned numbers that reflect relationship of height, bust, waist, hip, and torso length measurements • Grade: difference from one size to next in range • Sample size: represents body measurements from which full size range is developed ➢ Commonly use midsize as sample size • Variations from one company to another can be extreme • Manufacturing contributing to size confusion by vanity sizing (placing smaller size label on larger size garment) • Size migration: customer typically fits into range of three or more sizes, depending on manufacturer and cut of garment • Consumers putting pressure on manufacturers to improve sizing systems • Pressure expected to increase with non-store purchases • Chico’s → unique sizing system, sizes 0-3 • Intellifit company uses scanner to collect store data (e.g., David’s Bridal) • Categories ➢ Misses ➢ Petites ➢ Talls ➢ Women’s Plus ➢ Women’s Petites ➢ Juniors ➢ Maternity ➢ Other → intimate wear, gloves Men’s Sizing • Men’s wear – more consistent than sizing of women’s wear, because men’s styles do not fluctuate as much as women’s • Categories ➢ Suits, jackets, and coats ➢ Pants ➢ Men’s furnishings o Shirts o Underwear o Sleepwear o Ties and accessories • Young men’s Children’s Sizing • Originally based on age groups; consumers should now purchase sizes ba
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