CTD 261 Lecture Notes - Lecture 22: Dobby Loom, Jacquard Loom, Brocade

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Complex weaves: combinations of the basic weaves create more patterns, fancy fabrics: design produced at the same time as the fabric is woven. More expensive; more permanent design than applied designs; specialized looms required. Figured weaves: weaves with a distinct pattern woven into the cloth. Special attachments to the loom are needed to create figured weaves: small figured weaves are those which repeat on 32 picks or less. A (cid:862)do(cid:271)(cid:271)y(cid:863) atta(cid:272)h(cid:373)e(cid:374)t to the loo(cid:373) is (cid:374)eeded for these (cid:449)ea(cid:448)es. Birds-eye pique raised diamond effect, have stuffer yarns. Dotted swiss swivel, spot, extra warp or fill. Extra yarn weaves a type of dobby weave: extra yarns are used only in certain areas of the fabric to create a surface design in those areas. These extra yarns may be woven in either warp or fill direction. Examples: lappet, swivel, clipped spot of clipped dot (dotted swiss), pique.

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