E&S SCI 15 Lecture Notes - Lecture 9: Wave Power, Longshore Drift, Refraction
13 Jun 2016
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Document Summary
Tidal ellipsoid: very long wavelength wave (half the circumference of the earth) Tidal bulge speed depends on the ocean depth. Friction with the solid earth slows the wave. Slows the whole earth & drives the moon away, given enough time. Highest tides found in the bay of fundy (canada) Bores() caused when rising tide is funneled up a narrowing river estuary. Longshore bar: ridge parallel to the beach, formed by currents set up by breaking waves. Littoral/inter : zone between the high tide and the lowest tide. Berm: raised barrier, ridge forms at a high tice mark at the high surf mark. Marks how far the waves are able to move sand pebbles. Some of the water drains through the sand. Runs back over the surface, carrying sand with it. Beach structure varies and depends on wave energy. Caused by non-uniform solar heating of the ocean. Beach: skinny river of sand moving along the coast.
