MAST382 Lecture Notes - Lecture 13: Frequency, Wind Speed, Wind Wave
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18 Oct 2016
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Wave period (t) is time the wave takes to move distance equal to one wavelength = time that elapsed between arrival of two successive crests (or troughs) at a point on surface. Wave period is measured as number of seconds per wave. Wave frequency (f) is number of crests that pass a point on ocean surface in a given time. Measured as number of waves or fractions of a wave per second. Wave period (t) usually measured in seconds, frequency related by simple equation. In deep water, water molecules within waves move in circular orbital paths and only energy not water transported forward. Wave speed called celerity (c ) because there is essentially no net forward movement (or speed) of the water as the wave passes. Wave speed ( c) in deep water (depth > l/2) is calculated by the following equations: Wave steepness is equal to ratio of wave height to wavelength (h/l)
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