GEOL 2207 Lecture Notes - Wave Height, Wind Speed, Surface Tension
Document Summary
Wavelength: distance for one full cycle (crest to crest) Wave height (h): vertical distance from crest to trough. Period, t: time for one wavelength to pass a point. Frequency, f: number of waves per time period. Celerity, c: often just called speed, distance per time. Use these properties to determine wave speed and behaviour in either shallow or deep water. Transitional waves: wavelength/20 < d < wavelength/2. Deep water waves don"t feel the ocean floor, shallow water waves feel ocean floor. As waves move into shallow water: speed decreases, wavelength decreases, height increases, steepness increases, period stays the same, orbitals flatten. Describe the forces that generate waves, eliminate waves, and return the ocean to a flat, undisturbed surface. Changes in atmospheric pressure, storm surge, tsunami = seiche. Faulting of sea floor, volcanic eruption, land slide = tsunami. Gravitational attraction, rotation of earth = tide. Restoring force = surface tension (capillary wave), gravity (wind wave, seiche, tsunami, tide)
