EOSC 114 Lecture : Waves.docx
15 Dec 2013
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Document Summary
Swell: series of waves generated from a distance; well sorted. Wave height (h): vertical distance from crest to trough. Period (t): time for one wavelength to pass a point (seconds per cycle) Frequency (f): number of waves per time period (cycles per second) Celerity (c): distance per time period (meters per second), often called speed. Water particles move backwards then upwards as trough passes, forward then downward as crest passes. Water particles have orbital motion that increases with depth in open water. Water remains in place and is medium for wave energy to travel through in open ocean. Orbit is 1/23 of orbit surface at wave base. As waves move into shallower water: speed decreases, wavelength decreases, height increases, steepness increases, period stays the same, orbitals flatten, become elliptical, waves break Waves classified by: generating force: force adding energy to water, restoring force: force returning water to its undisturbed phase.
