EARTHSC 2GG3 Lecture Notes - Beach Nourishment, Breaking Wave, Longshore Drift
5 Sep 2014
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Document Summary
Effects of hurricanes are normal part of evolving landscape seen as nature on a rampage". Friction between air and water: wind-driven waves described in terms of. Period: height of wave increased by. Fetch: length of water surface over which wind blows. Amount of time wind blows across water surface: waves and sediment transport, waves generated with different sizes and moving at different speeds, can interfere to increase or decrease size of combination (cid:198) giant rogue waves, offshore: Water has circular motion within wave: waves approaching shore: Begin to feel bottom" where water depth is less than half wavelength. Figure 13-5 longshore drift: sand grains are pushed up onto a beach in the direction of wave travel. Gravity pulls them back directly down the slope of the beach. The combination is a loop that moves each sand grain along the shore with each incoming wave. Size and number of sediment particles depends on:
