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FSN 223
Maria Piccioni

FSN 101 – Textiles I Week 1 _____________________________________________________________________________ _ Key Terms (read text pages 6-13 & 532-543) fibre smart textile greige goods yarn finish fabric natural staple manufactured filament synthetic Lecture Outline 1. What is this course all about? Review of the course outline. The weekly schedule for the lecture and lab. Protocol for missed tests and assignments. 2. The Lab – 7 sections scheduled on Monday, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. 3. The Required Reading Assignment – an assortment of current journal articles have been included in the course. Each article has a series of questions which you have to answer and hand in. All students are required to do the readings, but only one section hands in the assignment, as outlined on the weekly breakdown. This is a gift of 5% in your overall grade for the course. All assignments are due at the beginning of class. If you are ill that morning, you may e-mail the assignment to me prior to the start of the lecture. The first article is due next week for section 01. 4. How can you be successful in this course? 5. Why do you need a textiles course anyway? How textiles can enhance your career. 6. What is the difference between fibres, yarns and fabric? 7. What is the difference between natural and manufactured or synthetic fibres? 8. What is the difference between staple and filament fibres? 9. Describe some innovative highlights in the field of textiles. 10. Time Management Seminar, distribute 4 month calendar and master test and assignment flow chart. FSN 101 – Textiles I Week 2 _____________________________________________________________________________ _ Old Text – pages 9-15 & 20-28/New Text - pages 18-24 & 32-39 Key Terms fibre mono/multi filament tex, denier manufactured yarn serviceability crimp natural staple luster drape synthetic filament hand tow micron life cycle analysis product development micro fibre Lecture Outline 11. What are the differences between fibres, yarns and fabric? Either some from nature, or man made 12. What are the differences between natural and manufactured or synthetic fibres? Natural sources – wool, very distinct texture - hairs interlock by the shingle like scales attaching – round, the larger the shingles the rougher (itchy) the fibre – wool coiled like a slinky or crimped – silk – fibre has a distinctive triangular shape end, is a long filament – cotton – come from a flower once the leaves drop off, the seed pot (boll) carries the fibres that are then spun – many different kinds of cotton (pima, Egyptian, sea island) the length of the fibre is longer then ‘regular cotton’ – appearance is like a twisted ribbon with a kidney bean shaped end, there tends to be a hollow centre, which allows absorbency properties – linen – created by the flax plant, blue flower, however the fibre is made from the stem, a stem that is decomposed, creates linen. The fibre looks like ‘bamboo’, has a hallow centre Manufactured fibres - spinnerette tool – fixed solution is pushed through the spinnerette, from the other end the fibre comes out (able to mould different shapes and width) 13. What is the difference between staple and filament fibres? Staple - come primarily from natural fibres - short filament - infinitely long, however can be cut into shorter fibres 14. What is the difference between mono and multi filament? What is tow? Mono - One - ‘Fishing line’ or invisible thread that is used for hems, or a mitalic thread running through the garment multi - many - majority of filaments are multi Tow - loose rope of several thousand filament fibres - crimping of texturizing the fibre adds bulk 15. How do fibres contribute to fabric performance? Features and benefits 16. What is serviceability? (aesthetics, durability, comfort, safety, appearance rentention, care, environment/sustainability, cost). See page 20. serviceability a. a textile products ability to meet a need b. aesthetic c. durability d. comfort e. appearance retention f. easy to care for g. not harmful to environment h. reasonable cost over garment lifetime 17. Define the physical properties of fibres and how they affect a fabric’s performance. Length, diameter, shape - fibre length (staple or filament) - shape (hollow-core – insulation and lock, trilobal, round – more can fit together, triangular, dogbone, flat and oval with convolutions - cotton, square with voids, serrated) - crimp - diameter (wool – 4dpf, polyester 2dpf, cotton 1.5dpf, silk 1dpf, microfibre .5dpf) - 18. What is product development? Choosing fabric in relation to silhouette appearance, performance and suitability to styling (fabric luster, drape, shape & proportion, hand/texture, resilience “the crush test”, shirring, gathering 2:1, 3:1, 4:1, soft vs. heavy or stiff fabric, using woven striped fabrics). Micron - how the diameter is measure - 1/1000 of a mm** Denier - how a fibre is commonly measured - weight in grams 9,000m of fibre** tex - yarn size in grams per 1,000 m** microfiber - a fibre ** product development - the design and engenieering of a product so that it has the desired characteristics ** fashion design development - aesthetic properties o luster – uneven reflective, short = poor luster, even reflective, long = strong luster – way light is reflected – commonly manufactured fibres have more lustre o drape – stiff fabric = less drape, soft = more drape – the way a fabric lays over a 3D form o hand – how it feels next to your skin (cool, crisp, stiff, harsh) how the fibre is shaped impacts how the fabric feels o texture – surface and how it feels – impacts its luster – different finishing impacts the texture o shape and proportion o reilience – how mush it wrinkles and its recovery o shirring/gathering – 2;1 – 24inch fabric gathered to 12, 3;1 – 36inch fabric gathered to 12 19. Review article “Following the Fabric Lifecycle: Textiles Come Full Circle”, AATCC December 2009, 22-28. FSN 101 – Textiles I Week 3 _____________________________________________________________________________ _ Text – chapter 3, pages 40-55 Key Terms absorbency moisture regain abrasion resistance flammability hydrophilic static electricity flexibility flame resistant hydrophobic thermoplastic pilling flame proof hygroscopic thermal retention mildew resiliency tenacity wicking he
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