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Week Two Fashion Concepts.docx

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Department
Fashion
Course Code
FSN 232
Professor
Joanne Mc Neish

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Week Two Fashion Concepts Fashion Cycles, Symbols and Flow Article: The New Face of Eating Disorders - (can incorporate into exam, project etc) - 1/3 cases of anorexic is male - excessive time at the gym - males feel ashamed and like they can come forward - “have control over body, have control/power over life” - triggers cause eating disorders/genetics - increased focus on men and fashion - can blame fashion? Fashion as a fantasy world, people look to deep into it and relate it to real life, - its okay to show a thin model, but when that's all you see, you think it's the normal  everyone should be represented What is a theory? What are fashion cycles and flows? 1. Trickle-Up, Down and Across 2. Cultural Appropriation How do I interpret Fashion? What is a theory? - a lens (one perspective) to understand a phenomenon (the topic that you are studying; when you put on yellow glasses, you see through the yellow perspective) - no theories are right or wrong, just on perspective to see Fashion Cycles and Flows Trickle down Theory: fashion trends start among the elit or fashion leaders and move down to the masses or fashion followers - oldest and most documented theory of fashion - introduced by Thorstein Veblen in a book called The Theoy or the social class? He noticed that the upper class could afford the best/newest, than lower class made the same with lower quality – Conspicuous Consumption: ppl spend money to publically display their power, wealth, status (ppl would want to copy status) applied to everything - Georg Simmel was the first to apply this to fashion: 3 stages 1. Elite wanted to differentiate 2. Lower class copied upper class 3. Upper class change fashion to maintain differences *imitation and differentiation - Grant McCracken: book: cultural consumption; said: society isn’t as based on social class, so need to modify change: no longer is it the most rich, it's the most powerful  - EX Corset ($$$, rich) than poor made with cheaper materials - McQueen bumster pants whole new aesthetic for pants, took several years to fuse down - Marni etc at HM  trickle down (used similar prints/patterns - Rick Owens to all saints Who are the fashion leaders today? Michelle Obama Celebrities Kate middleton Musicians Most powerful, not necessarily most rich as McCracken Are some consumer groups consistently excluded from trickle-down theory? When I damage my clothes in some way, I tend to panic about it a little bit. This, my friends, is a side effect of living with style scarcity .. I cant just run to Anthropologie or HM Fat style is a scarce resource (Lesley Knizel, January 21, 2009)  there’s less variety for plus size, ppl think only somethings look good on plus size, so they keep remaking it Mainstream designer, turned into wheelchair designer Trickle Up theory Fashion trends start among the masses (youth, sub-cultures) and move upward to the fashion leaders and elites - clothes always take on a different meaning when they trickle up or down - 1970 Status float phenomenon - ppl didn't cling to a class, the clung to a movement – expressed themselves through appearance - Ted Polhemus (American) talked about street style before there was street style and how this was influencing designers - People wanted something different, authentic, unusual – belong to a subculture - In order for trickle up to happen, on key deisnger has to take and introduce a style - DENIM: started as a working class, levis started in 1873, became material attire in 1919, than taken up by subcultural groups: motorcycle, cowboys; denim jackets – military, pop in 80s, now popular again, will designers take this and put it in their collections - Vivienne Westowood: punk because she was upset with the world; she took this subculture group and brought it to the runway – rather than just stealing it from a group, she was a punk and identified with it - Bloggers to magazines- magazines have street style sections on website etc How has the internet changed the trickle up dynamic? An epidemic of individuality Ppl are changing their styles often and combing different looks “style surfing” no rules about how to dress now even though sooo many styles, designers fixate on one theme When will today’s fashion journalist realize that their job now is to celebrate and present the diversity which is all around us rather than to try to cram everything into a single direaction? Ted polhemus - a lot of street style bloggers hang out near fashion week – fashion leaders
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