EOSC 114 Midterm 1 Learning Goals

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University of British Columbia
Earth and Ocean Sciences
EOSC 114
Ratna Srestna

Learning GoalsWaves 11 Identify Key Properties of WavesWaves have crests highest point troughs lowest point wavelengths crestcrest height crest trough amplitude half of the height and steepness hwavelength Waves also have periodof waves that pass a given point in one second and frequency how fast waves pass though a point per time These are inversely proportional to one another Moreover waves have celerity ms Waves also need a medium to travel through usually water and a generating force wind gravitational energy tectonic activity or atmospheric activity 2 Use these properties to determine wave speed and behavior in either shallow or deep water In shallow water DL20 the wave speed and behavior depend on the depth on the water that it is going through The deeper the wave the faster it will travel The shallower the wave the slower it will go In deep water waves DL2 the speed on the wave depends solely on the wavelength A longer the wavelength wave travels faster than a shorter wavelength wave 3 Explain how waves more matter and energy Waves move matter and energy in orbits As water goes one way matter will move in a circular fashion in the opposite direction It is important to note that there is negligible net movement the object goes nowhere Moreover waves require a medium to transfer energy and in the ocean water is that medium Energy travels through the water 4 Describe the forces the generate waves eliminate waves and return the ocean to a flat undisturbed surface The four generating forces that were discussed in class were Wind wind waves Atmosphere seiches Tectonic tsunami and Gravitational tides in order of most common The two restoring forces that return the ocean to a glassy state would be gravity return wind waves seiches tsunami tides back to normal and surface tension capillarity waves 5 Explain the factors that determine the roughness of the sea Three factors determine the roughness of the sea The wind duration wind speed and the fetch that the wind has traveled across In the ideal storm Beaufort 12 the waters under the storm would have many chaotic wavelengths The regions outside the storm would have wave of long lengths radiating in the direction of the wind
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