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# DA EOSC 114 Learning Goals Waves & Tsunami

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Department
Earth and Ocean Sciences
Course
EOSC 114
Professor
Leah May Ver
Semester
Fall

Description
Ch.5 Learning Goals 1. Identify key properties of Crest- highest point of a wave waves Trough- lowest point of a wave Wavelength (L or λ)- distance between two successive crests or troughs; (meters) Wave Height (H)- vertical distance between crest and trough; (meters) Amplitude (a)- H/2; (meters) Period (T)- time for one wavelength to pass a point; (minutes or seconds) Frequency (f)- number of waves passing a point per unit of time; (per minute or second) Celerity or Speed (S)- distance traveled per unit time; (meter per second) Steepness- a measure of the “peaked-ness” of a wave; the ratio of height to wavelength, H/L; (no units) 2. Use these properties to - Below the wave base (L/2), there is no determine wave speed and measurable movement of water particles in behavior in either shallow or response to a passing wave, therefore, scuba divers deep water dive below the wave base to avoid turbulence Wave Type Depth of Particle Water Orbital Motion Deep Water d (>/=) L/2 Circular Wave Shallow Water d (=) L/20 Elliptical to Wave Flat Transitional/ L>201/7) 7. Describe wave refraction, Wave refraction is the bending of the wave, seiche (standing waves in allowing it to be nearly parallel to the shore as it enclosed or semi-enclosed approaches. bodies), and resonance; how do these affect the coast and A seiche is a resonant wave in a body of water people? caused by a disturbance by wind or seismic activity - Commonly form in lakes or landlocked seas but can also form in semi-enclosed areas (I.e. North Sea) A slosh is a seiche on the Great Lakes and is always present but is too small to be noticeable - Effect of a seiche is similar to that of a storm surge except that seiche can oscillate back and forth across the body of water for some period of time 8. Relate wave interference and resonance to marine hazards 9. Explain how a tsunami - Locally generated tsunami are the most compares with other ocean dangerous tsunami of all waves - The severity of the generating earthquake does not always determine the magnitude of the ensuing tsunami - Devastating earthquake related tsunami can occur in areas not associated with tectonic plates (1929 Grand Banks) - Tsunami usually occur in association with one or more other natural disasters (I.e. landslides) - Tsunami travel long distances across the ocean without losing energy Run up: the maximum vertical height above sea level that a tsunami reaches onshore - Although rare, tsunami can be generated in places far remo
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