EOSC 114 : DA EOSC 114 Learning Goals Waves & Tsunami

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Ch. 5 learning goals: identify key properties of waves, use these properties to determine wave speed and behavior in either shallow or deep water. Wavelength (l or )- distance between two successive crests or troughs; (meters) Wave height (h)- vertical distance between crest and trough; (meters) Period (t)- time for one wavelength to pass a point; (minutes or seconds) Frequency (f)- number of waves passing a point per unit of time; (per minute or second) Celerity or speed (s)- distance traveled per unit time; (meter per second) Steepness- a measure of the peaked-ness of a wave; the ratio of height to wavelength, h/l; (no units) Below the wave base (l/2), there is no measurable movement of water particles in response to a passing wave, therefore, scuba divers dive below the wave base to avoid turbulence. Water wave d (>/=) l/2 d (=) l/20 elliptical to. Deep water (dispersive)- waves with longer wavelengths travel faster than short waves.

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