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Chapter 3

FSN 199 Chapter 3: FSNWeek3ReadingNotes

3 Pages

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FSN 199
Sue Barnwell

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find more resources at oneclass.com Monday, September 19, 2016 FSN 199 Week 3 Reading Notes Chapter 1:The Interplay of Commerce and Culture before the First World War The Rise of Haute Couture - elitism in fashion has always been linked closely with status and social class, with success and with what was perceived to be impeccable taste made publicly visible through dress - royal courts would use fashion as a mean of publicizing their superiroritym strength and influence across Europe - middle class in the 19th century had financial and political power, allowed for more then one class to afford expensive clothing - society’s that are changing will produce fashions that are also changing, which stimulates greater production of consumer goods - middle class groups trying to emulate fashion of the higher class, forced the higher class to adopt new tasted to re-establish and maintain their original distance - the influx of popular culture into mainstream society signalled a shift in the previously held elitist notion of what constitutes status in society Charles Fredrick Worth: • CFWorth designed for members of royalty and fitted aristocrats and grand divas of the stage • a number of his garments where displayed in the famous British Great Exhibition of 1851, which promoted his reputation throughout Europe and enabled him to open his own business in Paris invited to create a wedding dress for Alexandrua, Princess of Whales, where he took • advantage to create a new silhouette that changed the direction of fashion for the next 30 years, • he introduced a narrower skirt and bustle back • success of his fashion empire= 1,2000 workers by 1870 • he was one of many of the early haute couture designers to recognize the financial opportunities inherent in the American market • he attracted the attention of wealthy patrons his clothes were shipper internationally and purchased by department stores such as Sears • Roebuck and Montgomery Ward • his name was often mention in the American Voguem which resulted in the spreading of his fame to women beyond courtly circles • he expanded his repertoire of clients to include famous singers and actors of the day recognizing that his garments would be seen by a much wider audience if worn by these popular figures The Rise of Consumerism • the rise of the middle class consumer, economic factors implicit in the improved production systems, mass manufacture, incentive advertising and marketing techniques etc, were influential in the evolving ‘democratization of fashion’ • the availability of ready made clothing for both men and women coincided with the development of the department stores and these factors were instrumental in the emergence of a ‘culture of consumption’ that eroded social class barriers ▯1 find more resources at oneclass.com find more resources at oneclass.com Monday, September 19, 2016 • by the turn of the century there was great abundance and diversity of mass produced merchandise available but the stigma that they were poorly made fashion goods took a long time to dispel • during this time in advertising there was however, greater emphasis being placed on marketing techniques that on the products themselves • three main marketing strategies were developed to promote consumption; museum methods of presentation and display of goods; use of ‘seduction theory’ as a sophisticated psychological marketing approach; and the escalation of mass media advertising The Interplay of Commerce and Culture • merchandised in the display cases if department stores became the treasures of consumerist society • if museums have celebrated and taught the premise of materialism to the public, then the department stores led the way to the modern development of merchandising, this is evident in both the west and the east The Art of Fashion and Advertising • marketing strategists insist that the continuity of the visual section in the fashion industry is based on the desirability
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