EAS205 Chapter 13: Coastal Zones
17 Mar 2016
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Beach: gently slopping surface, washed over by waves & covered by sediments. Beach face: portion regularly washed by waves as tides rise/ fall. Berm: flatter part of beach landward of beach face. Waves/ tides: principal force behind natural shoreline modification. Induced by flow of wind across water surface created undulations. Water molecules rise and fall in circular orbits that grow smaller with depth. Grinding effect of sand pebbles and cobbles propelled by waves along the shore (most effective erosions) Salty water creates more rapid erosion through chemical reaction. Exception= limestone dissolves less easily in seawater. Tides: periodic rise and fall of water levels as consequence of gravitational pull of sun and moon. Spring tides: sun, moon & earth aligned (tidal extreme) Long shore current: waves approaching the beach at a angle, when water washes up onto/ down off of the beach; net movement of water laterally along the shoreline.
