Visual Arts History 1043A/B Chapter Notes - Chapter 5: Graphic Communication, Niche Market, Sexual Objectification

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Fashion (Oxford History of Art): Christopher Breward
Chapter Five
Fashion On The Page
-late 19th and 20th centuries as period of rapid modernization for the
clothing trades
-depends on power of graphic communication
-rise in literate population and rise in fashion texts
-growing interest in symbolism and psychological potential as a
communicator of oral / aesthetic values during war years
-clothing and furniture given human characteristics so as to fit into
your lifestyle
-development of fashion magazine plays important role in this turn
towards understanding economic, emotional and social life as
mobilization of style
>The Fashion Plate
-shows fashion style and desired behaviours
-more lifestyle scenes like we see today
-mass market for low class offered affordable glamour but lacked
artistic detail from other magazines
-can chart counter cultural attitudes about body adornment leading to
Paris Avant Garde over commercial fashions
>Vogue and Photography
-photography became more popular to show garments
-emphasis on potential of lifestyle and art to promote magazine
-fashion illustration leads to creative dream world
-Vogue USA in 1892 as elite society journal then high fashion in 1909
-strong aesthetic direction
-Bible for fashion
-photographer surrealist types too
-reader might negotiate more complex relationship with clothing
identity, image and desire
-fashion magazine as a kinetic, continuous sequence of textual and
pictorial information
-sexual objectification of body began to surface
-more complex networks established between the magazine, its
creative staff, its advertisers
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