GEOG 2051 Chapter : 4 19 16

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15 Mar 2019
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Muddy processes that form coasts: primary- terrestrial processes, ex. ria, deltas, fiords, secondary- marine processes, ex. reef coasts erosional landforms. Arches: wave refracting and acting on both sides depositional landforms. Beaches: dynamic, trying to develop equilibrium, some swash trickles up sand, backwash not as strong, deposits sediment, steeper and steeper, backwash enhanced, working toward equilibrium. Fair weather (swell waves): long wave, lower height, push sediment onshore. Storm waves: steep, high waves, net offshore transport, cut beach back, flatter foreshore. Spit: extensions of general trend of shoreline. Tombolo: built perpendicular to shoreline by longshore transport, if big enough obstruction can have double. Barrier islands: elongated, narrow islands of sand parallel to shore. Ocean side if broader, gentler sloping than bay side. Gradation in vegetation: primary dune > trough > secondary dune > back dune. Barrier island rollover: allows to preserve itself from erosion, pushed landward.

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