GEOL107 Chapter Notes - Chapter 14: Raised Beach, Longshore Drift, Surf Zone
15 Oct 2018
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Some sand is carried out to deep water. Some sand is piled up and stored high on the beach. Most shores - more of the sand moves along parallel to the beach in relatively shallow water. On some beaches, the sand is being removed faster than it is being replenished. The energy that moves sand along a beach comes from the wind-driven water waves that break upon the shore. Large portion of their energy is spent moving sand along the beach. Vertical distance between the crest (high point of wave) and trough (low point of wave) The horizontal distance between 2 wave crests (or 2 troughs) A particle of water moves in an orbit (nearly circular path) as the wave passes. As waves move from deep water to shallow water near shore affected by the ocean bottom. Wave that has become so steep that the crest of the wave topples forward, moving faster than the main body of the wave.
