GEOL 107 Lecture Notes - Lecture 19: Wave Base, Wind Wave, Sediment Transport
15 Apr 2019
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Document Summary
Particles in a wave do not move laterally, only vertically. Particle motion comes only from wind or currents. Object moves in direction of energy in crest but back in trough. Confined (to wave form) until breaking (final release of energy) L = length between crests or troughs. Height = vertical distance between crest and trough. Wave only goes down to the wave base (depth of. Under the wave base = no wave motion. Just below trough level, you don"t feel energy of wave under that depth. Defined by relationship of length (l) and depth (d) Length decreases but volume stays the same, water has to go somewhere so it goes up. When two currents push towards shore with a gap in the middle where water pushes back out. Energy of waves goes side to side. Open orbit, particle does not come right back to where it started. Stokes drift: shoreward motion of sediment from shallow water waves.
