GEOG 001 Lecture Notes - Lecture 26: Wave Height, Wave Power, Bathymetry
19 Aug 2020
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Document Summary
Waves are generated by wind, wind blowing over the ocean or a lake transfer some of its energy to water, producing waves. The waves, in turn, travel through the water and eventually expend their energy at the shore line. The duration of the wind, winds that last longer, such as those associated with storms, have more time to impart energy to the water, therby producing larger waves. The distance the wind blows across the water, which is referred to as fetch. a longer fetch allows larger waves to form; thus waves in the ocean are generally larger than those in a lake. As waves move away from their source, they become organized in to groups, or sets, of similar size and shape. Unexpected, unusually large rogue waves occasionally arrive at shore, sometimes with disastrous results. Water moving across deep water have a similar basic shape or wave form, three parameters describe the size and movement of a wave:
