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Module F - The Coastal Ocean.docx

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University of British Columbia
BIOL 111
Catherine Ortner

MODULE F THE COASTAL OCEANpg 285288Lesson 12BeachesShoreline ProcessesWhich coastal areas are parts of the beach the beach is the entire active area of a coast that experiences changes due tobreaking waves the beach consists of backshore foreshore shoreline nearshore offshore wavecut bench berm beach face longshore bars and longshore troughsWhat seasonal changes do beaches experience light and heavy wave activity alternate seasonally at most beaches so the characteristics of beaches they produce change as well in the summer light wave activity produces a wide sandy berm and an overall steep beach face at the expense of the longshore barin the winter heavy wave activity produces a narrow rocky berm and an overall flattened beach face and builds prominent longshore bars a wide berm that takes several months to build can be destroyed in just a few hours by highenergy wintertime storm wavesHow are longshore currents created What is longshorelittoral drift the zigzag movement of water along the shore is called a longshore current longshore currents have speeds up to 4km per hour speeds increase as beach slope increases as the angle at which breakers arrive at the beach increases as wave height increases and as wave frequency increaseslongshore drift is the movement of sediment in a zigzag fashion caused by the longshore current both longshore currents and longshore transport occur only within the surf zone an
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