EOSC 114 Lecture Notes - Lecture 23: Seiche, C Mathematical Functions, Capillary Wave

• School: UBC
• Department: Earth and Ocean Sciences
• Course: EOSC 114
• Professor: Lucy Porritt

Document Summary

The energy is transmitted through the medium, but the medium itself barely moves. Waves pass through a medium (air, water etc) Are generated by wind or by geological events. Behave as surface rayleigh seismic waves (causing water particles to rotate in place) Water moves as waves pass; but net water motion is zero. Wavelength (l): distance in meter for one full cycle. Wave height (h): vertical distance from crest to trough. At a given wave height, the shorter its wavelength, the higher its steepness. As a wave approaches short, its l decreases and its h increases. Steepness: h/l (height divided by wavelength) (no unit) Period (t): time (in seconds) between successive cycles (or time it takes two crests to past a fixed point) Frequency (f): number of cycles per 1 second (in hz) Celerity (c): l/t, wavelength per time period. Creates a disturbance in the fluid level (wave crest) But it goes too far (overshoots) and creates a trough.