Geography 2152F/G Lecture Notes - Lecture 6: Downdrift, Landform, Longshore Drift

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Coastal hazards: landscapes where continents meet oceans are dynamic/capable of rapid. Major hazard includes: rip current, erosion, sea-level rise, storm surge change: some are influenced by plate tectonics, passive margins are distant to plate boundaries, active margins are relatively close to plate boundaries. Waves: wind blowing over ocean or a lake transfers energy to water, producing waves, waves travel through water and expend their energy at shoreline. Size of wave depends on: velocity of wind, duration of wind fetch (distance wind blows across water) Wave height: diff in height b/w crest and trough. Wave period: time of successive wave crest to pass reference point. Wave motion in open ocean, motion is circular: circles decrease in diameter w/depth cause energy decrease with depth. Wave variation along coastline irregularities in topography cause variations in wave height as they approach shore irregular coastlines have headlands that wave reach first; resultant waves are typically large and high energy.

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