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Lecture 8

GLY 1103 Lecture 8: Coastal Processes Cont
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Department
Geology
Course Code
GLY 1103
Professor
Brian Zimmer

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Description
Coastal Processes Cont Waves- transfer of energy from atmosphere to hydrosphere Components- wavelength, crest, trough, amplitude, height Wave base= ½ wavelength Wave height= .8 x d Gentle Slope= spilling breaker, bad surfing, deposition Steep Beach- plunging breaker, good surfing, erosion Wave Refraction-  Wind produces waves oblique to beach face  Shallowing slows leading end  Waves bend as trailing edge travels faster On irregular shorelines refraction acts to concentrate wave energy at headlands, facilit
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